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Rock Climbing (Ice Climbing)

Some say the Black Hills are among the greatest climbing destinations in the world. Frankly, we don't know because we don't do it. So what follows is second hand information from those who do.     According to rockclimbing.com there are three major areas of rock climbing in and around the Black Hills: The limestone canyons of the north, notably Spearfish Canyon; the central granite spires of the central hills, notably the Cathedral Spires and Needles areas of Custer State Park; and  Devil's Tower in Wyoming.        According to the expert guides at the Sylvan Rocks Climbing School, the central hills area contains more than six hundred quality climbs including mulitple pitch aid routes, hard sport routes, free traditional crack climbs and excellent bouldering. Many of these climbs are in Custer State Park for which an entry fee is required. Information about the park is located at: http://www.sdgfp.info/parks/Regions/Custer/custersp.htm but the web site is silent about any climbing restrictions. The Black Elk Wilderness area is open to climbers however a number of restrictions apply. These can be found at http://www.fs.fed.us/r2/blackhills/maps/recguide5.shtml.     The Spearfish Canyon area boasts more than 300 Limestone climbs including "classic pocket climbing with monos to big jugs, plus in-cuts and edges, sidepulls, pumpy routes, slabs, steep walls, balancey routes, overhangs, bulges, roofs, cracks and flakes," according to author Bruce B. Junek who has written a book on the subject.      Permits are required from some climbs, such as the popular Devil's Tower climb, and there may be some restrictions on when and where climbers may make ascents. For instance, Devil's Tower is closed to climbing on some Native American holy days. Rock Tower Guides offers guided ascents of Devil's Tower.        What do other people say? Here's a link to an article that appeared in a 2004 issue of Climbing magazine. http://www.michaelclarkphoto.com/ingodshands.html             Now a word about Ice Climbing: Yes.  A number of rock climbs are also listed as ice climbs. A list is available at the Mountain Project.  This site also contains many pictures of various climbing peaks in the Black Hills.         By the way, Mt. Rushmore is closed to climbing. BACK HOME  update 9/21/06